Cutting, rooted or grafted: what turns up in the box
Three listings, three prices, three completely different first weeks. What each one actually is, and what you do on day one.
8 min read5 sections
One listing arrives as a dry stick you must not water. One arrives with roots and behaves like an ordinary potted plant. One is two plants stuck together. The prices are often within a few dollars of each other, so the price will not tell you which is which — the listing has to.
The five things people sell
, rooted plants, plants, seedlings and seed. Four of those five are offered as broadly comparable things, so what you are really choosing between is how much work has already been done to the plant rather than a ladder of grades. Seedlings are the one class the community treats as the cheap way in.
Two things to know before you read on. Rooted plants normally travel , with the soil shaken off, and a good listing says so out loud. Seedlings ship bare root too and often arrive floppy at the base; they firm up again once they are replanted.
Tip, mid and base
Any long column can be divided into three kinds of piece, and they behave differently once you get them home.
- A tip cut carries the growing point, so it carries on getting taller from that same tip.
- A mid cut is a section from further down with no growing point. It restarts by pushing new branches out of its areoles — and because it has no tip, it cannot go thin at the tip while it roots.
- A base or stump cut is the lowest piece. It has often rooted already, which makes it the easiest of the three to grow on.
Figure
One column, three pieces
The two cuts that turn a column into products — and the notch rule that settles which way up a mid goes.
Tip cut
keeps the growing point — carries on climbing
Mid cut
no tip — restarts by branching from its areoles
Base
the stump end — often already rooted
Gulls flying up — this end down, and it grows.
Gulls hanging down — upside down. Planted like this it never starts.
A mid roots and grows every bit as well as a tip and is a standard product, not a lesser one. The single thing it asks of you is that you plant it the right way up. Look for the notch above each : it reads as a seagull, and the seagulls fly upward. Planted the wrong way round it never grows at all.
Tip cut
one cut face · growing point intact
Mid cut
two cut faces · no growing point
Prices tell two stories here, and it is worth knowing both. A nursery selling usually asks a little more for a tip than for a mid of the same length. Out in the open community market, once you compare pieces of the same length, that gap all but disappears. The is the one part of the column that is discounted outright.
What the plant is doing: cut, callus, shrivel, root, pup
Every unrooted cutting you will ever buy is somewhere on this track, and knowing where it is on the day it lands makes the whole first year make sense.
Interactive
Cut, callus, shrivel, root, pup
Play it through, or step between the stages. A cutting is sold at the second stage and a rooted plant at the last — which is most of what the price difference is.
Day 0
The cut
A fresh cut is a wet, open wound, and the flesh is still completely full. The cut is taken at a slight angle so water runs off it instead of sitting on it, and then the piece is left standing in the shade with air around it. Nothing is planted today.
Stage 1 of 5: The cut. Day 0. No soil, no water.
The cut. A wet open face, and flesh that shrinks as it dries. It has to heal over before it goes anywhere near soil.
Figure
Why the shape of the cut matters
A healing face shrinks and the skin around it does not. That one fact decides whether the top of your plant sheds rain or collects it.
Cut flat, left square
the one that rots
Healing flesh shrinks and the skin around it does not, so a square cut dishes into a saucer. Then it rains.
Cut flat, edge chamfered
one extra pass
Take the top edge back all round and the face still shrinks — but there is no rim left to hold anything.
Cut at an angle
nothing to fix later
A slanted face sheds on its own, and the piece will stand upright to heal with air moving across the wound.
Day nought
wet · pale · ring bright
Day fourteen
dry · buff · sealed
The , and why it has no fixed date. The face pulls in, goes tan, and finishes hard, dry and shiny, and that finish is the only thing that says it is done. The budget is about a week of drying for every inch of stem thickness, which works out at two to three weeks for an ordinary cutting; a slim can be ready in a few days and a fat column takes longer than either. Where growers give two figures, take the longer one, because drying too long is a far smaller problem than not drying enough.
Where the drying happens is a cosmetic choice, not a survival one. Indoors on a rack, no rain, dew or dust ever lands on the wound, so the callus finishes clean enough to photograph. Outdoors the moving air is the better mould insurance, and the scar just looks a little more lived-in. Either way the plant is equally healthy — the difference shows in how the scar looks, not in how it grows.
The shrivel, weeks three to eight. The column thins visibly while it lives off its own stored water. This is the stage that makes people reach for the watering can, and that is how most first cuttings are lost.
Week nought
ribs full · firm
Week six
ribs drawn in · same height
Roots, around two months. White roots come out of the base and the ribs start to fill out again.
A pup, around six months. Enough roots by now to behave like any other potted plant. The buried green takes roughly a year to turn to bark, and once it has, it can no longer easily.
Where you buy in on that track is what the price difference is for. A cutting is stage two. A rooted plant is stage five, with six months of somebody else's patience already spent on it.
What grafted changes
A grafted plant is two plants: the top you chose, and a different, faster plant underneath supplying the roots. That energy makes the top grow quicker and fatter and pup sooner than the same piece would on its , and in some it looks different too.
Two things follow for you. Any pups appearing on the rootstock below the join have to come off, or they starve the plant you actually paid for. And on a rootstock a graft never has to be separated — the base will carry it indefinitely. Grafts ship healed, roughly two weeks after they were made.
Day one, by what arrived
Quick check
Did any of that land?
Question 1: Your new cutting looks thin and thirsty after three weeks. What should you do?
Question 2: Which of these can never go thin at its tip while it roots?
Question 3: Small pups are appearing below the join on a grafted plant. What do you do?